The first friend I ever made in Mombasa Primary school was
this tiny girl called Salwa. Salwa was a Kenyan of Yemeni Arab descent; small,
even smaller than me, and I am only a few inches taller than a midget. We were
quite the pair, always together, always getting into trouble. She was a little
lady, I was an unabashed tomboy, try as she might, she couldn’t get me to stop
climbing everything and picking up everything. “Yuck! Betty!” was her constant
scream at break-time. I loved the look on her face when I picked up millipedes,
and also how she ran away laughing.
My first memory of Ramadan was when Salwa refused to eat my
break with me. “I am on Saum.” My first lessons on Islam were taught to me by a
very solemn Salwa. “Never ever put the Quran on the bottom, Betty, put it on
top of your other books.” Up until that point, I did not realize that her hijab
was part of her Islamic identity; I always thought that it was because her hair
was so long so she had to cover it to protect it from getting dirty.
I grew up in Mombasa with Muslim friends, of all ethnicities
and it never ever occurred to me that I was a “foreigner”. But I am Kikuyu, and
my family had moved to Mombasa just before I was born, so we were indeed alien
to the coast.
The issues of non-coastal people inhabiting the coastal
region has progressively become a highly contentious matter; a situation so
volatile that in 1992 there were the first attacks on “watu wa bara” by
militants who wanted them to return up country.
This attitude is entirely contrary to the culture of the
coastal people and Muslim communities; theirs is a non-resistant and welcoming
approach to strangers and foreigners. For this turn of civility to occur, there
were indeed historical injustices inflicted on the people of the coast.
When the missionaries first arrived at the port of Mombasa,
they were met with non-resistance; it was the nature of the Africans and
Muslims to be welcoming, to share what they had, and to ensure that the
visitors were comfortable. The missionaries found that the most advanced
settlements were among the Muslim communities; towns complete with sewerage,
sanitation and water delivery systems and building made of stones with
beautifully crafted wooden doors. Naturally, the missionaries would turn to the
Waswahili people to serve them as clerks, because they were the ones who were
literate. Indeed, the entire region of Mombasa and greater parts of the Coast
were under the rule of the Sultan of Zanzibar - a government that based its
rule on Islamic principles fully entrenched with education, financial systems
and judiciary. The Wali were the administrators, and the Kadhi courts dispensed
justice. The con was to trick the coastal people that they would retain that
system.
This is indeed the story of Islam in all the colonies in Africa – that
the Islamic systems were dismantled through cruel trickery and sometimes even
violence from the colonialists.
As the missionaries advanced inwards, the Waswahili would
establish “Majengo” settlements; miniature administrative towns that were
complete with sanitation and ablution facilities. The Majengo settlements were
found wherever the missionaries and later colonial administrators needed to set
up office. The name “Wastaarabuni” came to imply a civilized people, as the
Majengo were indeed the most civilized settlements to be found, complete with
Wali and Kadhi court systems as was the norm with Islamic communities. With the
proliferation of the Majengo settlements came the advancement of the Islamic
faith among the ethnic communities living near those settlements. Islam spread
as far north as Mandera and Wajir, and as far west as Mumias.
It became clear to the missionaries and early colonialists
that the spread of Islam was entirely contrary to their own objectives and so
certain decrees became part of their design to curb and control the Muslims.
Because Islam was gaining dominance, the claim that Islamic education is
illiteracy was a tactical development in an effort to formalize the colonial
administration. Since that time, the absolute absence of Islamic education in
Kenya’s educational system has been enforced. With the exception of Islamic
Religious Education as a sole subject in classrooms, there is an absolute
dearth of any sort of Islamic knowledge being passed on as far as government,
jurisprudence, culture or economic systems are concerned.
On the whole, everything
Islamic was dismantled even at the coast and especially in the constitution –
there was an absolute disappearance of the Wali and the Kadhi courts were
restricted to dealing with the Muslim communities’ family laws. In all this,
the Christian Church was actively pushing for the exclusion of anything Islamic
in nature including the Kadhi system, education, wali system of administration
and economics. Indeed the church till today is influential in blocking Sharia
system of banking, rendering a lot of people incapable of accessing credit.
A significant factor to disenfranchising Muslims in Kenya
and especially at the coast was the fact that even in the Majengo settlements
the colonial administration would refuse to give title to the Muslims. The same
goes for the coastal people; they to this day hold no title to land that they
have inhabited for centuries. This is a deliberate design to deny economic
power or development and to keep the Muslim community totally marginalized.
Without title, one certainly could not lay claim to the very
land their houses stood upon. Even after independence, as President Jomo
Kenyatta redistributed titles to the indigenous people, the coastal people were
not accorded titles. Instead, people from up country, “Watu wa Bara” were
allowed to settle at the coast and later acquire title deeds even though they
were not the original inhabitants. This is the grave crime that especially the
Gikuyu people at the coast are guilty of.
This sort of economic injustice and unfair acquisition of
land was epitomized by Coast Provincial commissioner, Eluid Mahihu, the very
representation of the “Gikuyu” grabbing mentality; a man who was the living
definition of a “foreigner” and who was both a corrupt person and also the face
of the church. His was a double injustice – as he acquired property through
grabbing of land, he hid himself as a “pious” elder of the Presbyterian Church
of East Africa. Indeed, over time, the P.C.E.A church has become predominantly
Kikuyu and the activities of criminals among the congregation silently ignored.
The hypocritical actions of church leaders have directly
contributed to over all tensions and mistrust between the coastal people and
“Christians” from other parts of the country. Indeed, where as once, the
coastal people could identify themselves separately as Muslim and non-Muslim,
today they identify themselves as one community regardless of their faith
because to date they remain squatters on their own land, impoverished and
marginalized.
Without title one cannot borrow money, and certainly cannot
develop anything on land that they do not “possess”. This is the essence of the
poverty at the coast, the source of animosity among the coastals towards
“foreigners”, whether white or African. From Vanga, near the border of Kenya
and Tanzania to Kiunga at the border of Kenya and Somalia, the title deeds are
owned by “foreigners”. Well. Not ALL titles. Just as in any civilization, among
the people of the coast of Kenya, you will find the Collaborators, the Puppets,
and of course, those closest to the centre of power. They too, acquired title.
The claim is that
these absentee landlords are people from Saudi Arabia and Yemen; the truth is
that these landlords comprise of Kenyan nationals who acquired title through
corrupt and unjust means. So called absentee landlords are just a camouflage
for a select few, foreigners from up-country and actual foreigners to acquire
property at the coast and turn the coastal people into squatters in their own
land.
To date, Muslims remain impoverished and excluded because of
their faith for two reasons – their faith does not allow usury or transactions
with interest and they do not own title to property.
It is within these circumstances that the Kenya government
thus seeks to enact a “War on Terrorism” that is targeted at the Muslim
community; where as a search for suspects of other crimes results in only those
suspects being arrested and detained, Kenya’s counter- terrorism tactics
involve raiding, arresting and detaining entire families, blatant criminal
vandalism, plunder, rape and extra-judicial killings. In Kenya, ALL Muslims are
terrorism suspects.
That this is going on within our borders, with the knowledge
of our spiritual and political leaders is a testament to how deeply ingrain our
collective hypocrisy and bigotry is a nation. WE are the terrorists!
I was in Mombas Primary School too..which year were you?
ReplyDeleteI love this part of the story
ReplyDeleteWhen the missionaries first arrived at the port of Mombasa, they were met with non-resistance; it was the nature of the Africans and Muslims to be welcoming, .....